Hello everyone!
One of the most anticipated patterns I have written in a long time!
Meet the Sugarplum Cardigan, a fun and colourful crochet patchwork cardigan that’s perfect for adding a little colour to your fall and winter wardrobe! This beginner-friendly crochet pattern features an easy construction using simple squares, making it a great project for advanced beginners or anyone looking for a fun and relaxing make.
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The Sugarplum Cardigan is made up of two different types of squares, some in solid colours and others featuring fun stripes! Both squares use very simple crochet stitches, making them easy and enjoyable to work on. For this pattern, we’ll be using worsted weight yarn, which gives the cardigan a cozy feel without being too bulky.
Not ready to crochet yet? Pin this image and crochet later!
Practice your stitches
Before getting started on your Sugarplum Cardigan, make sure you’re comfortable with your basic crochet stitches! Since this pattern uses simple stitches throughout, having a good understanding of the basics will make the entire process much easier and more enjoyable. Take some time to practice your stitches, keeping an even tension and making sure your stitches are consistent. This will help your squares turn out nice and even, making them easier to join later on!
Sizes and fit
This Cardigan is a size-inclusive crochet pattern, available in sizes XS to 6XL! This cardigan is designed to have a relaxed, oversized fit, with approximately 12–20″ of positive ease, depending on the size you choose.
If you’re not familiar with positive ease, it simply means the garment is larger than your actual body measurements. In this case, we’re referring to your bust circumference, measured around the fullest part of your bust. For example, if your bust measures 40″ and the finished cardigan measures 56″ around the bust, that gives you 16″ of positive ease.
Make sure to check the sizing chart before getting started to choose the size that will give you your preferred fit!
Should I block my squares?
You don’t necessarily need to block each square individually before joining them together, but I do recommend washing and blocking your cardigan once it’s finished! You can absolutely block each square separately if you prefer, but there won’t be a huge difference between doing them individually or blocking the entire cardigan at once.
One thing I do recommend is washing and blocking your cardigan before adding the buttons. This will allow the stitches to relax and the cardigan to settle into its final shape before adding the buttons.
The yarn recommended for this pattern
For the Sugarplum Cardigan, I used Wool-Ease by Lion Brand Yarn, a worsted weight (category 4) yarn made of 80% acrylic and 20% wool. I love this blend because it’s soft, cozy and easy to work with, making it a great choice for a cardigan you’ll want to wear all fall and winter! It is also incredibly easy to care for, just toss your cardigan in the washing machine, on a gentle cycle, tumble dry low and your garment is ready to be worn!
You can also use a different worsted weight yarn if you prefer, just make sure to check your gauge before getting started, as different yarns can affect the final size and fit of your cardigan.
Love this pattern? The printable PDF includes additional charts, colour combinations and helpful extras to make your Sugarplum Cardigan even easier to follow! You can find it on Etsy or My Shop or get the full kit with Lion Brand Yarn here. You get more than the free version :)
Check out more crochet patterns
Follow along with the video tutorial on YouTube!
Pst!: This video shows how to make the ribbing collar, it’s not the full video tutorial for this particular cardigan, but the construction of the ribbing collar is the same.
Stitches you should know
- Chain
- Slip Stitch
- Single Crochet
- Half Double Crochet
Yarn
Yarn: Worsted Weight Yarn #4: I used Wool Ease by Lion Brand Yarn which is a blend of 80% acrylic and 20% wool, and each skein contains 85g/180m. I used the following colours and quantities:
Notions
Measurements
Final measurements: 46″x43″ (without border)
If you’d like to modify the size, you will need a chain multiple of 3+2.
Gauge
Each square will measure a bit different depending on the size you’re making, continue reading the pattern to see what size yours should be. You will need to make a square using a 6 mm hook and the square must not be blocked.
Abbreviations
This pattern uses US standard terms
- Blo – Back Loop Only
- Ch(s) – Chain(s)
- Hdc – Half Double Crochet
- Sc – Single Crochet
- Sc2Tog – Single Crochet 2 Together (decrease)
- Ss – Slip Stitch
- St(s) – Stitch(es)
- [] – Repeat the sequence in the brackets
- CC – Contrast Colour
General Notes
- You DO NOT need to block your squares before assembling, but you DO need to block/wash your cardigan once it’s all done.
- All sizes will need the same number of squares per colour, we will be changing the number of rows and stitch count to achieve different sizes.
- Keep in mind that any other modifications you make to the cardigan may change the amount of yarn you’ll need.
- The photos in this pattern show the size M/L.
Measurements:
This cardigan has approximately 12″-20″ of positive ease (depending on the size), considered *Oversized*
Standard bust circumferences used to calculate sizes: XS/S (30″-34″), M/L(38″-42″), XL/2XL(46″-50″), 3XL/4XL(54″-58″), 5XL/6XL (62″-66″)
Finished measurements chart
Pattern
Make your squares using a 6 mm hook: (see page 8 for number of squares required per colour)
Note: To make joining the squares easier, leave a 6″ tail at both the beginning and end of each square. These tails will be used later when joining the squares.
Follow accordingly for your desired size: XS/S (M/L) XL/2XL (3XL/4XL) 5XL/6XL
Square 1: Solid
Note: The ch 1 at the beginning of the row does not count as a stitch.
Chain 17 (19) 22 (24) 26
Row 1: Insert your hook in the 2nd ch from the hook and make a hdc, now continue with hdc across the row. Ch 1 and turn. (16 (18) 21 (23) 25 sts in total)
Row 2: Hdc in the first st available and across the row. Ch 1 and turn. (16 (18) 21 (23) 25 sts in total)
Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 14 (14) 14 (14) 16 rows.
Square 2: Stripes
Note: Each square is worked with 2 colours: CC is the contrast colour and Colour E is the off-white. Carry the yarn up the sides when switching colours to avoid cutting it. Keep the carried yarn loose to prevent pulling and keep the square even.
With the CC chain 24 (26) 30 (32) 36
Row 1: Insert your hook in the 4th ch from the hook and make a sc, [ch 1, skip a st, sc into the next ch], repeat sequence to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn. (22 (24) 28 (30) 34 sts in total)
Row 2: Skip the first sc, [sc into the ch space from the previous row, ch 1, skip a st], repeat the sequence to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn. (22 (24) 28 (30) 34 sts in total)
Note: The last sc of each row is placed in the space between the sc and the ch 2 turning chain from the previous row.
Colour sequence: Foundation ch, row 1 and 2 are worked with CC, then 2 rows with colour B, 2 rows with colour A and continue alternating. You should finish the square with 2 rows of colour A.
Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 22 (22) 22 (22) 26 rows.
Joining the squares:
Lay the squares on a flat surface (see colour placement on page 8) and join them from the wrong side using the whip stitch, mattress stitch, or your preferred method. Use the tails left on the squares for joining so the seam blends in. When joining a striped square to a solid square, use the tail from the solid square. (PHOTOS A & B)
Don’t cut the tails along the edges of the cardigan, as some of them can be used later to join the sides of the cardigan and the sleeves.
Closing up the cardigan:
Fold your cardigan inside out and begin joining the squares on the sides and down the sleeves. Once all pieces are attached we will begin the cuffs, collar and bottom ribbing.
Make the bottom ribbing:
Using colour A and a 5.5 mm hook
Foundation row: With the body of your cardigan facing you (or upside down and the right side facing out), insert your hook in the corner edge of your cardigan. Pull up a loop, ch 1 and make a sc in the same stitch. Continue by placing a sc into each st of each square. Repeat this all the way along the bottom edge.
Begin the ribbing: With the yarn still attached, chain 9 (for all sizes). Insert your hook in the 2nd ch from the hook and make a sc, now continue with sc across the row. When you reach the base of the chain (8 sts in total), ss into the next 2 sts on the main piece. Turn your work, and make a sc blo in the next 7 sts, then a regular sc in the last stitch. Turn your work again and work 8 sc blo down the row.
At the base, ss into the next 2 sts on the main piece. Repeat this sequence across the bottom to create the ribbing.
(PHOTOS C & D)
Once you are done, fasten off and weave in the ends.
Make the collar:
Using colour A and a 5.5 mm hook
Foundation row: With your cardigan right side out, insert your hook into the corner (the bottom of the ribbing when looking at the piece from the front). Pull up a loop and make a ch 1, then sc in the same stitch. Continue by placing a sc in the next row, then 2 sc in the next row, and repeat this all up the side. It will look like this: 1 sc, 2 sc, 1 sc, 2sc… Once you get to one of the striped squares, work 1 sc into each row of the square. When you get to the neckline, you will also make 1 sc into each st available (as the square shows the sts rather than the side rows). Now, go back down the other front panel the same way as the previous front panel. (PHOTO E)
Now you will place stitch markers on the left side of your cardigan (when looking at it), to see exactly where you would like to have your buttons placed. I made the buttonholes every 3″, but feel free to make them closer or further apart. I made 5 buttonholes but you can add as many as you would like.
If you don’t want to have buttons, skip the buttonhole making and continue working the ribbing as indicated. (PHOTO F)
Begin the ribbing: With the yarn still attached, chain 9 (for all sizes). Insert your hook in the 2nd ch from the hook and make a sc, now continue with sc across the row. When you reach the base of the chain (8 sts in total), ss into the next 2 sts on the main piece. Turn your work, and make a sc blo in the next 7 sts, then a regular sc in the last stitch. Turn your work again and work 8 sc blo down the row.
At the base, ss into the next 2 sts on the main piece. Repeat this sequence across to create the collar. (PHOTO G)
Every time you get to a stitch marker, make the buttonholes: On your way up the ribbing, sc blo 3, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc blo 2, sc into the last st. On your way back down the ribbing, sc blo 3, sc 2 into the ch-space, then sc blo in the last 3 sts. Join with ss into the body and continue with the regular ribbing until reaching the next st marker. (PHOTO H & I)
Make the cuffs:
Using colour A and your 5.5 mm hook:
Round 1: Insert your hook into any stitch on one of the squares in your cuff. Pull up a loop and ch 1, then make a sc in the same stitch. Continue by placing a sc in each “row” across the squares, you should have approximately 56 (56) 56 (56) 64 sts around, join the round with a ss, ch 1.
Round 2: Sc in the first stitch, then another a sc in the next 3 sts, sc2tog, [4 sc, sc2tog]. Repeat this pattern all the way around. You might not end exactly with the sequence, and that’s completely fine, sc in the remaining sts if any left to complete the round. Ss into the first st to join the round, ch 1.
Round 3: Sc in the 1st and next st, then sc2tog, [2 sc, sc2tog]. Repeat this pattern all the way around. You might not end exactly with the sequence, and that’s completely fine, sc in the remaining sts if any left to complete the round. Ss into the first st to join the round. DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Begin the ribbed cuff: With the yarn still attached, chain 7 (for all sizes). Sc in the second ch from the hook and down the chain (6 sts in total). When you reach the base of the chain, ss into the next 2 sts on the main piece. Turn your work, and make a sc blo in the next 5 sts, then a regular sc in the last stitch. Turn your work again and work 6 sc blo down the row.
At the base, ss into the next 2 sts on the main piece. Repeat this sequence around the cuff until it’s complete.
To finish, ss once at the base of the cuff. Bring the two ends of the cuff together, and sc through both layers from the wrong side to join and close the cuff. Once complete, fasten off and weave in the ends.
**Repeat the same process for the second cuff**
Final details:
Once your cardigan is complete, weave in all the ends.
Sew the buttons onto your cardigan, and make sure they are aligned with the buttonholes. Last, block or wash your cardigan. If you’re using the same yarn as the sample or a synthetic fibre, I recommend washing it on a gentle cycle and using the dryer. This will leave your cardigan soft with a beautiful drape.
Colour chart and squares placement
FAQ
Is the Sugarplum Cardigan beginner-friendly?
Yes! The Sugarplum Cardigan is a beginner-friendly crochet pattern, perfect for advanced beginners who are comfortable with basic crochet stitches. The squares are simple to make, and the easy construction makes this a great first crochet cardigan project!
What yarn should I use for this crochet cardigan?
For this pattern, I used Wool-Ease by Lion Brand Yarn, a worsted weight (category 4) yarn. You can absolutely substitute it with another worsted weight yarn, just make sure to check your gauge to ensure your cardigan turns out the correct size.
Can I customize the colours of my Sugarplum Cardigan?
Absolutely! One of my favourite things about this crochet patchwork cardigan is how easy it is to customize. You can use the suggested colour palette or choose your own combination to match your personal style. The possibilities are endless!
Do I need to block my crochet squares before joining them?
Not necessarily! You can block each square individually if you prefer, but I recommend washing and blocking the entire cardigan once it’s finished. Just make sure to do this before adding your buttons!
How do I choose the right size for my cardigan?
The Sugarplum Cardigan is available in sizes XS to 6XL and is designed to have an oversized fit, with approximately 12–20″ of positive ease. To find your size, measure around the fullest part of your bust and compare your measurement with the sizing chart.
Can I make this cardigan less oversized?
Yes! If you prefer a more fitted look, you can consider sizing down. Just keep in mind that this cardigan is designed to be oversized, so make sure to check the finished garment measurements before choosing a smaller size.
Is this crochet patchwork cardigan worked in one piece?
No! The Sugarplum Cardigan is made using individual crochet squares, some in solid colours and others featuring stripes. Once all your squares are finished, you’ll join them together to create your cardigan. This makes the construction simple and easy to follow!
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