Hello everyone!
I’m not too sure about the weather yet. It’s mid-April, and we still have cold weather occasionally, but hey! That’s perfect for a brand-new pattern.
Believe it or not, this is my very first Crochet Sweater Pattern, and I couldn’t be more proud and happy with the results!
Not ready to crochet yet? Pin this image and get to it later!
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About the yarn I used
I used Color Theory by Lion Brand Yarn for this sweater, which is 100% acrylic yarn, super soft and perfect for a spring wearable.
It’s on the lighter side when it comes to acrylic yarns, which gives this sweater a lovely drape and feel—perfect for that in-between season vibe.
Feel free to use any acrylic or acrylic blend you have on hand—just make sure it’s a size 4 or Worsted Weight yarn.
About the size & construction
This sweater is super beginner-friendly—the construction is simple with hardly any decreases, making it a great first project if you’re new to making wearables!
We’ll start by crocheting a long rectangle, which, once folded in half, becomes both the front and back panels. Then, we’ll add the sleeve directly to the side of that panel.
Once that’s done, we’ll repeat the same steps to create the second half of the sweater.
To finish, we’ll use the slip stitch method to join the sides and sleeves, and finally, we will bring both panels together in the middle to shape the neckline and add that perfect little finishing touch.
This sweater was made with 7″ of positive ease, which makes it perfectly flowy and loose.
You will find this pattern in sizes XS all the way up to 5XL, so choose your size and start crocheting!
Standard bust circumferences used to calculate sizes: XS(30″), S(34″), M(39″), L(42″), XL(46″), 2XL(50″), 3XL(54″), 4XL(58″), 5XL(62″).
Pictures in this pattern show a 5′ tall woman wearing size M.
Wash/block your sweater!
Sweaters are one of those projects that you MUST block or wash in order to create a drapy fabric and achieve the desired look.
Using Color Theory, I like washing and drying my sweater, acrylic blends are perfect for that, no need for steam blocking or mats, just toss it in the washing and dryer machine!
Make sure to read your yarn label first, and also wash with similar colours and nothing that can get caught with your yarn in the washing process.
If you would like the ad-free printable pattern PDF, you can get it from Etsy or My Shop and Ravelry. You can also get the KIT here.
Check out more fall patterns
Stitches you should know
- Chain
- Slip Stitch
- Single Crochet
- Half Double Crochet
- Double Crochet
Yarn
You will need Worsted weight yarn, category 4, of any kind. I used Color Theory by Lion Brand Yarn in the following colours and quantities:
Notions
Gauge
4″x4″: 14 sts x 11 rows using pattern stitch and a 6 mm hook.
Abbreviations
This pattern uses US standard terms
- ch(s) – Chain(s)
- sl st – Slip stitch
- sc – Single crochet
- hdc – Half double crochet
- hdc2tog – Half double crochet 2 together using invisible decrease (see below)
- dc – Double crochet
- st(s) – Stitch(es)
- () – The group of stitches in the parenthesis are worked in the same stitch.
- [] – Repeat the sequence in the brackets
General Notes
- You DO need to block/wash your sweater once it’s all done.
- The right side of the fabric is the one with the more visible texture or “bumps”; the wrong side will be the more “flat”. (PHOTOS A & B)
Special Stitche
Half Double Crochet 2 Together (Invisible Decrease): Yarn over, then insert your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch, then go straight into the front loop only of the next stitch. You’ll have three loops on your hook (yarn over + 2 front loops). Yarn over again and pull through all the loops on your hook.
Pattern
Notes:
- For all pieces when indicated, follow accordingly: [XS(S)M(L)] [XL(2XL)3XL(4XL)5XL]
Panel (makes front and back panel when folded)
Using colour A, ch [122(138)152(164)] [178(194)210(226)242]
Row 1: Hdc into the 2nd ch from the hook and each chain across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 2: (sc, dc) in the first st, [skip one st, (sc, dc) in the next st], repeat the sequence all the way across until you have 2 sts left, skip one and sc in the last st. Chain 1 and turn.
Row 3: Hdc across the row. Ch 1 and turn.
Each row will have a total of [121(137)151(163] [177(193)209(225)241] sts at the end of the row.
Alternate rows 2 and 3 for a total of [29(31)33(35)] [35(37)37(39)39] rows, in the following colour sequence:
Rows 1 to 8 (8 rows): Colour A
Row 9 (1 row): Colour B
Rows 10 to 14 (5 rows): Colour A
Row 15 (1 row): Colour B
Rows 16 to [29(31)33(35)] [35(37)37(39)39] (a total of [14(16)18(20)] [20(22)22(24)24] rows): Colour A
Do NOT fasten off; save between 4 meters (for sizes XS to L) and 7 meters (for sizes XL to 5XL) (13 and 23 feet) of yarn to close the side and sleeve later on. (PHOTO C)
This large panel will be your front and back panels.
Sleeve
Using the same panel we just worked on, count [34(39)44(48)] [53(59)64(70)76] stitches in from each end and place a marker—you should have [53(59)63(67)] [71(75)81(85)89] stitches left in the middle, between both markers. (PHOTO D)
Now, grab colour A and insert your hook right next to the marker, with the wrong side of your panel facing up. (PHOTO E)
Row 1: (sc, dc) in the first st, [skip one st, (sc, dc) in the next st], repeat the sequence all the way across until you have 2 sts left, skip one and sc in the last st. Chain 1 and turn. ([53(59)63(67)] [71(75)81(85)89] sts in total)
Row 2: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 47, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([51(57)61(65)] [69(73)79(83)87] sts in total)
Row 3: Repeat Row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([51(57)61(65)] [69(73)79(83)87] sts in total)
Row 4: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 45, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([49(55)59(63)] [67(71)77(81)85] sts in total)
Row 5: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([49(55)59(63)] [67(71)77(81)85] sts in total)
Row 6: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 43, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([47(53)57(61)] [65(69)75(79)83] sts in total)
Row 7: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([47(53)57(61)] [65(69)75(79)83] sts in total)
Row 8: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 41, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([45(51)55(59)] [63(67)73(77)81] sts in total)
Row 9: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([45(51)55(59)] [63(67)73(77)81] sts in total)
Row 10: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 39, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([43(49)53(57)] [61(65)71(75)79] sts in total)
Row 11: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([43(49)53(57)] [61(65)71(75)79] sts in total)
Row 12: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 37, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([41(47)51(55)] [59(63)69(73)77] sts in total)
Row 13: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([41(47)51(55)] [59(63)69(73)77] sts in total)
Row 14: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 35, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([39(45)49(53)] [57(61)67(71)75] sts in total)
Row 15: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([39(45)49(53)] [57(61)67(71)75] sts in total)
Row 16: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 33, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([37(43)47(51)] [55(59)65(69)73] sts in total)
Row 17: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([37(43)47(51)] [55(59)65(69)73] sts in total)
Row 18: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 31, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([35(41)45(49)] [53(57)63(67)71] sts in total)
Row 19: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([35(41)45(49)] [53(57)63(67)71] sts in total)
Row 20: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 29, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([33(39)43(47)] [51(55)61(65)69] sts in total)
Row 21: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([33(39)43(47)] [51(55)61(65)69] sts in total)
Row 22: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 27, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([31(37)41(45)] [49(53)59(63)67] sts in total)
Row 23: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([31(37)41(45)] [49(53)59(63)67] sts in total)
** Change to colour B **
Row 24: Hdc all the way across. Ch 1 and turn. ([31(37)41(45)] [49(53)59(63)67] sts in total)
** Change to colour A **
Row 25: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([31(37)41(45)] [49(53)59(63)67] sts in total)
Row 26: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 25, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([29(35)39(43)] [47(51)57(61)65] sts in total)
Row 27: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([29(35)39(43)] [47(51)57(61)65] sts in total)
Row 28: Hdc all the way across. Ch 1 and turn. ([29(35)39(43)] [47(51)57(61)65] sts in total)
Row 29: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([29(35)39(43)] [47(51)57(61)65] sts in total)
Row 30: Hdc all the way across. Ch 1 and turn. ([29(35)39(43)] [47(51)57(61)65] sts in total)
Row 31: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([29(35)39(43)] [47(51)57(61)65] sts in total)
Row 32: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 23. hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([27(33)37(41)] [45(49)55(59)63] sts in total)
Row 33: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([27(33)37(41)] [45(49)55(59)63] sts in total)
Row 34: Hdc all the way across. Ch 1 and turn. ([27(33)37(41)] [45(49)55(59)63] sts in total)
Row 35: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([27(33)37(41)] [45(49)55(59)63] sts in total)
Row 36: Hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 21, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([25(31)35(39)] [43(47)53(57)61] sts in total)
Row 37: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([25(31)35(39)] [43(47)53(57)61] sts in total)
Row 38: hdc 6, hdc2tog, hdc 19, hdc2tog, hdc 6. Ch 1 and turn. ([23(29)33(37)] [41(45)51(55)59] sts in total)
Note: Before switching colours, I highly recommend using pins or stitch markers to close up your panel and sleeve, then try it on. This is the perfect time to add a few extra rows if you want your sleeve to be a bit longer. (PHOTO F)
** Change to colour B**
Row 39: Repeat row 1. Ch 1 and turn. ([23(29)33(37)] [41(45)51(55)59] sts in total)
Row 40: Sl st all the way across, adjust tension of chs if you want tighter around your wrist.
Repeat the panel and sleeve one more time!
Closing the side panel and sleeve:
Using the yarn you saved from the end of the first panel, use the slip stitch method to close up the side and sleeve. With the right side of your work facing up, start by inserting your hook at the bottom of the panel into the top loop of the stitch (PHOTO G). Then, insert your hook into the back loop of the stitch on the panel closest to you (PHOTO H). With both loops on your hook, yarn over and make a slip stitch. Keep going like this all the way up the side of the sweater. (PHOTO I)
When you get to the sleeve, continue the same method—this time, you won’t have clear stitches to follow, so you’ll be working into the sides of the rows. Just make sure your slip stitches aren’t too tight and that you’re adding enough of them to keep the seam smooth. Also, line up the brown rows so everything looks nice and even. Once you reach the end of the sleeve (the wrist area), fasten off and weave in your ends. (PHOTO J)
Joining the 2 panels together:
Line up both panels and use a few stitch markers to keep them in place—use as many as you need! Mark exactly where you want your neckline to begin, and carefully try on your sweater to make sure you’re happy with the placement and depth. (PHOTO K)
Once the front and back panels are secured with stitch markers, grab colour B and insert your hook at the bottom of the front opening. Pull up a loop and begin slip-stitching the front of the sweater closed, using the foundation chain as your guide. Insert your hook through the bottom loop of the chain from the top panel (PHOTO G), then through the matching chain on the bottom panel (PHOTO H), and make a slip stitch. Make sure your slip stitches aren’t too tight to avoid puckering the fabric. (PHOTO I & L)
When you get to the last marker, continue slip-stitching, but now only on one side of the neckline (PHOTO M). Go around the neck until you reach the first stitch marker on the back, then begin slip-stitching both panels together again.
Once you finish the back panel, fasten off and weave in the end neatly.
Finally, using colour B again, finish the other side of the neckline. Insert your hook just below the last stitch you made on the front (PHOTO N), and slip stitch along the other side of the neckline. Once you reach the back, fasten off and secure the yarn tail under the first stitch of the joining so everything looks smooth and continuous.
Photo Tutorial
I hope you like this pattern. If so, please don´t forget to share and tag me on social media!
This is a quick reminder that the copying or distribution of this pattern as a whole or in parts is prohibited.
Thank you, and happy crocheting! – Dani
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