How To Crochet The Never Off Granny Squares Cardigan

Hello hello friends, happy 2025!

There’s something magical about taking classic granny squares and transforming them into a wearable piece of art. My newest crochet pattern, the Never Off Cardigan, is the perfect blend of fun, creativity, and comfort. Whether you’re a fan of bold, vibrant palettes or prefer soft, neutral tones, this cardigan lets you play with colours to create something truly unique. And the best part? It’s so easy to make, even confident beginners can dive right in!

Not ready to crochet yet? Pin this image and get to it later!

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This oversized cardigan is designed with comfort in mind, making it your go-to for those chilly winter days. The relaxed fit and cozy feel make it perfect for layering over your favourite outfits, whether you’re lounging at home or heading out to run errands. It’s the kind of piece you’ll want to wrap yourself in all season long!

About the yarn I used

For this project, I’m using Wool-Ease by Lion Brand Yarn, a tried-and-true favourite in the crochet world. This worsted-weight yarn is not only incredibly soft but also super versatile. With its wool and acrylic blend, Wool-Ease combines warmth and durability, making it perfect for garments like this cardigan. Plus, it’s widely available and comes in an amazing range of colours, so you can easily find shades that match your vision.

About the size

This pattern comes in multiple sizes, from XS to 4XL, and it has 10″ of positive ease, which makes it nice and oversized.

Because this cardigan is quite oversized, I decided to combine 2 sizes in one, so in the pattern you will find that one size will cover XS/S. This means that, if you usually wear a size XS or S, this size will fit you well.

Remember that it has 10″ of positive ease. If you like it EXTRA oversized, then I would recommend sizing it up.

Wash/block your cardigan!

Regardless of the material you use to make your cardigan, I highly recommend washing or steam-blocking your garment.

This will allow the stitches to relax and fit better, without your cardigan looking stiff.

If you don’t like blocking, just throw it in the washing machine (check your yarn label first).

If you are using Wool-Ease you MUST wash and dry it. Trust me, the difference this will make in your garment is out of this world.

If you would like the ad-free printable pattern PDF, you can get it from Etsy or My Shop and Ravelry. You can also get the KIT here.

Check out more fall patterns

Learn how to make the square with this video tutorial on YouTube!

https://youtu.be/4SRw5IYEckU

Stitches you should know

• Chain
• Slip Stitch
• Single Crochet
• Double Crochet

Yarn

You will need Worsted weight yarn, category 4, of any kind. Follow accordingly:

XS/S(M/L)XL/2XL(3XL/4XL)

Colour A: 223g/473m(335g/710m)478g/1012m(635g/1345m)

Colour B: 98g/208m(168g/356m)266g/563m(378g/800m)

Colour C: 98g/208m(168g/356m)266g/563m(378g/800m)

Colour D: 84g/178m(144g/305m)228g/483m(324g/686m)

Colour E: 98g/208m(168g/356m)266g/563m(378g/800m)

I used Wool-Ease by Lion Brand in the following colours:

Nightshade – Colour A

Arrowwood – Colour B

Fisherman – Colour C

Umber – Colour D

Thrush – Colour E

Notions

• Size 5.5 mm hook
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle
• A few stitch markers

Gauge

A 3-round square measures 4″x4″ using a 5.5 mm hook without being blocked.

Abbreviations

This pattern uses US standard terms

• BLO – Back Loop Only
• Ch(s) – Chain(s)
• DC – Double Crochet
• PS – Puff Stitch
• SC – Single Crochet
• Sc2Tog – Single Crochet 2 Together (decrease)
• Ss – Slip Stitch
• St(s) – Stitch(es)
• [] – Repeat the sequence in the brackets

General Notes

• You DO NOT need to block your squares before assembling, but you DO need to block/wash your cardigan once it’s all done.
• All sizes will need the same number of squares per colour, we will be changing the number of rounds to achieve different sizes.
• This cardigan has 10″ of positive ease, considered *Oversized*. Standard bust circumferences used to calculate sizes: XS/S (30″-34″), M/L(38″-42″), XL/2XL(46″-50″), 3XL/4XL(54″/58″)

Special Stitches

Puff Stitch: Yarn over, insert your hook into the space, and pull up a loop. Repeat another 3 times for a total of 4 times. You should have 9 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops.

Back Loop Only: Look at the top of the stitch where you’ll insert your hook. You’ll see two loops: the front loop (closer to you) and the back loop (farther away).

Insert your hook under the back loop only of the stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop, and finish your stitch as usual.

Pattern

Make your squares:

(see page 4 for the number of squares required per colour)

Ch 4, then ss into the first ch to form a loop. In this loop work:

Round 1: Ch 3, [ps, ch3, ps, ch1], repeat the sequence in brackets another 3 times until you reach the end of the round, ss into the first ch 3 space to close the round. (8 puff stitches in total)

Round 2: Ch3, [(ps, ch3, ps, ch1) into the first ch space. Dc 4 into the next ch space]. Repeat the sequence in the brackets another 3 times until you reach the end of the round. Ss into the first ch space to close the round.

Round 3: Ch3, [(ps, ch3, ps, ch1) into the first ch space. Dc 2 into the space between the ps and dc from previous round, 4 dc in the next 4 st, dc 2 into the space between the dc and ps from previous round]. Repeat the sequence 3 more times until you reach the end of the round. Ss into the first ch space to close the round.

** Stop here if you are making the size XS/S**

Round 4: ch3, [(ps, ch3, ps, ch1) into the first ch space. Dc 2 into the space between the ps and dc from previous round, 8 dc in the next 8 st, dc 2 into the space between the dc and ps from previous round]. Repeat the sequence 3 more times until you reach the end of the round. Ss into the first ch space to close the round.

**Stop here if you are making the size M/L**

Round 5: ch3, [(ps, ch3, ps, ch1) into the first ch space. Dc 2 into the space between the ps and dc from previous round, 12 dc in the next 12 st, dc 2 into the space between the dc and ps from previous round]. Repeat the sequence 3 more times until you reach the end of the round. Ss into the first ch space to close the round.

**Stop here if you are making the size XL/2XL**

Round : ch3, [(ps, ch3, ps, ch1) into the first ch space. Dc 2 into the space between the ps and dc from previous round, 16 dc in the next 16 st, dc 2 into the space between the dc and ps from previous round]. Repeat the sequence 3 more times until you reach the end of the round. Ss into the first ch space to close the round.

**Stop here if you are making the size 3XL/4XL**

For all sizes: Once your square is done, fasten off and weave in the ends.

Joining the Squares:

Lay the squares on a flat surface and begin joining them using the “invisible joining method” or any method you prefer. Use a long strand of yarn to join an entire row at once to minimize the number of ends you’ll need to weave in later.

Invisible Join (photo A):

• Place the two granny squares side by side, with the right sides facing up.
• Thread Your Needle: Use a yarn needle and a strand of yarn that matches your squares.
• Insert your needle under the front loop of the stitch on the square closest to you. Then, insert the needle under the front loop of the stitch on the other square. Keep moving back and forth, weaving the needle under the front loops of each square as you go. Pull the yarn gently to bring the squares together without puckering.
• Once you reach the end, give the yarn a gentle tug to “zip” up the seam. It will almost disappear! Tie off securely and weave in any ends.

After all your squares are sewn together, fold your cardigan with the wrong side facing out. Using the same joining method, seam the sides of the cardigan and the sleeves.

Make the cuffs:

Round 1: Insert your hook into any stitch on one of the squares in your cuff. Pull up a loop and make a sc in the same stitch. Continue by placing a sc in each stitch across the squares, remembering to work one st into each of the puff stitches and one into the chain-3 spaces (Photo B). Repeat this all the way around, ss into the first st to join the round and ch1.

Round 2: Sc in the first stitch, then another sc in the next stitch. [sc2tog, 2 sc]. Repeat this pattern all the way around. For different sizes, you might not end exactly with the sequence, and that’s completely fine. Ss into the first st to join the round, then ch 1.

Round 3: Sc in the first stitch, then [sc2tog, sc]. Repeat this pattern all the way around. For different sizes, you might not end exactly with the sequence, and that’s completely fine. Ss into the first st to join the round. DO NOT FASTEN OFF.

Begin the ribbed cuff: With the yarn still attached, chain 9 (for all sizes) (photo C). Sc in the second ch from the hook and down the chain (8 st in total). When you reach the base of the chain, ss into the next 2 st on the main piece (photo D). Turn your work, and make 7 sc blo in the next 7 stitches, then a regular sc in the last stitch. Turn your work again and work 8 sc blo down the row. (Photo E)

At the base, ss into the next 2 st on the main piece. Repeat this sequence around the cuff until it’s complete.

To finish, ss once at the base of the cuff. Bring the two ends of the cuff together, and sc through both layers to join and close the cuff. Once complete, fasten off and weave in the ends. (Photo F)

**Repeat the same process for the second cuff**

Make the bottom ribbing:

With the body of your cardigan facing you (or upside down) (photo G), insert your hook in the right corner edge of your cardigan. Pull up a loop and make a sc in the same stitch. Continue by placing a sc in each stitch across the squares, remembering to work one st into each of the puff stitches and one into each of the chain-3 spaces. Repeat this all the way across. (Photo H)

Begin the ribbing: With the yarn still attached, chain 11 (for all sizes) (photo I) and turn your work. Sc in the second ch from the hook and down the chain. When you reach the base of the chain (10 st in total), ss into the next 2 st on the main piece. Turn your work, and make 9 sc blo in the next 9 stitches, then a regular sc in the last stitch. Turn your work again and work 10 sc blo down the row. (Photo J)

At the base, ss into the next 2 st on the main piece. Repeat this sequence across the bottom to create the ribbing.

Once you are done, fasten off and weave in the ends.

Make the collar:

With your cardigan right side out, insert your hook into the left corner (the bottom of the ribbing when looking at the piece from the front) (photo K). Pull up a loop and make a sc in the same stitch. Continue by placing a sc in each stitch across the squares, remembering to work one st into each of the puff stitches and one into each of the chain-3 spaces. Repeat this all the way across the other corner of your cardigan (you will go up the left panel, the neckline, and down the right panel), and turn your work.

Begin the ribbing: With the yarn still attached, chain 11 (for all sizes). Sc in the second ch from the hook and down the chain. When you reach the base of the chain (10 st in total), ss into the next 2 st on the main piece. Turn your work, and make 9 sc blo in the next 9 stitches, then a regular sc in the last stitch. Turn your work again and work 10 sc blo down the row.

At the base, ss into the next 2 st on the main piece. Repeat this sequence across the bottom to create the ribbing.

Once you are done, fasten off and weave in the ends.

Final details:

Once your cardigan is complete, weave in all the ends and block or wash it. If you’re using the same yarn or synthetic fibre, I recommend washing it on a gentle cycle and using the dryer. This will leave your cardigan soft with a beautiful drape.

Photo tutorial

Colour Chart and Square placement

If you liked this pattern/video please give it a like on YouTube and share your pictures online using the hashtag #NeverOffCardigan.

Happy Crocheting ~ Dani